November 22, 2008

Hi, I did it! I saw an elephant. Three to be exact. Also, almost got attacked by a warthog and sat on a crocodile. All in all, I'd say the trip was great! We started off the trip in Koforidua for one night, there is a really awesome bead market there, where many of the merchants in Ghana get their supplies. Then to Kumasi for the 2 following nights. Kumasi is the other big 'city' here, besides Accra, so it was interesting to see what it's like. It reminded me of India for some reason, even though I've never been there [I'm reading a book called Shantaram right now, that takes place in Bombay, so India has been on my mind]. We went to some museums there, and a place called 'the Magazine' where you can purchase basically any and every car part that ever existed.

After Kumasi, we went to Tamale, where we stayed for one night before heading up to Larabanga, the village right outside of Mole National Park. From Tamale onwards, all of the places we went are predominantly Muslim areas, and thus had a much different feel and style to what I've been used to in Kpando. The houses are made up of several small mud huts with thatched roofs, one for each room, which are all enclosed by a mud wall. Larabanga is by far the coolest village I've been to here. It houses the oldest mosque in Ghana. We slept in a mud hut on the compound of a non-profit school organized by Hassaan and Alhussein Salia, twin brothers who were born and raised in Larabanga. We ate our food by the fire and walked around guided only by the moonlight. I loved it. The next two nights we stayed in Mole Motel which is actually inside of the park. It is built on a hill overlooking the watering hole. We went on safaris both days we were there. I saw babboons and lots of other little monkeys [I wish I could bring one home]. Monkeys and warthogs walk around the hotel grounds. Walking back to our room one night, I told one of the warthogs I was going to sit on him. He didn't like that very much, but he pretended not to pay attention until I made a kissy kiss noise at him. He immediately perked up and grunted and started running towards me. Thankfully I got to my room in time. It would have sucked to lose a battle to a warthog tusk. [We've been watching too much Lion King at the orphanage, I think, and Puumba just seems so NICE!]. Our last safari was the most successful: towards the end of it, when we'd already resigned to not seeing an elephant, we came upon one, who led us to her mate and their baby. We got to watch them bathe from about 15 yards away. It was incredible. Getting to Larabanga is not pretty. We took a school bus, also known as a clapped out death trap, that seemed to be from 1972 on a 5 hour ride along a dirt road. It was worth it.

After Mole we went to Bolgatanga. This is another cool town. We stayed in a guesthouse owned by a most lovely older gentleman who took great care of us and made sure that we weren't overcharged or taken advantage of. Bolga is about 40 mins outside of Paga, the crocodile village. In Paga, we went to the chief's house, a slave camp, and the crocodile pond. All of these places were amazing. The pond is located in the center of the village, and the crocodiles walk around and do as they please. The villagers swim in this pond daily and encouraged us to do it as well. Unfortunately, I can't say I did, but I did feed one croc a live chicken. I had to hold a crazy old man's hand the whole time, but I did it. The entire time he was literally shouting in my ear to CROUCH MY LEGS AND SCRATCH IT! And as the crocodile turned to go back into the pond, he yelled to PULL HIM BACK and RAISE THE TAIL, RAISE IT! I couldn't do it. Feeding the damn thing was enough excitement for me.

From Bolgatanga we made our long journey back.The kids greeted us with open arms. I was as excited, if not more, to see them as they were to see me. They loved looking at our pictures. I wish we could have taken them. Gigi Bon kept wanting to look at the baboons again and again to point and say 'see the buttoss.' Wisdom, Kingsley, and Mawuli watched my video at the crocodile pond about 10 times and laughed at how scared I was. The trip was amazing, but it was even better to come home again. I missed them.

I hadn't been feeling well at all this week, and yesterday I started feeling dizzy, so I went to the hospital to get it checked out. I waited for 3 hours to be seen. For the entire time I was there, and who knows how much longer, there was a woman across from me who had the tip of her finger hanging on by a thread. She had the hand wrapped in a pair of children's underwear which she kept opening up. It was not pretty. Although the sight of it made me even more nauteous [or nauseated, Annie] than I felt already, I was greatly impressed by how quietly and patiently she sat for the whole time. After having blood work done, it turns out that I have typhoid. Please feel free to look up how this sickness is contracted. It's charming. Needless to say, I won't be eating street food for the rest of my time here.

A few people have emailed me about possibly donating. In light of this, and the upcoming holidays, I will end with a tentative list of suggestions for one to put money towards, if one is feeling generous.
1. toys [cars, 'spy glasses' - as per Atsu and Etse's request, a dollhouse - George wants one, don't ask, 'guns' - Israel brought it up and immediately the rest yelled AND ME TOO GUN, anything spiderman - for Love, or Yove as Gi calls him, boxing gloves - better than the head punches they give each other all day, etc. etc. Please note that literally anything will be put to good use]
2. art/school supplies [pens, pencils, notebooks, crayons, markers, bookbags, all dat]
3. games [any at all]
4. clothes [I'd like to get them each a new outfit for church, as of right now they are quite the motley crew, what with shirts, pants, dresses that are too big, and shoes that are dirty or uncomfortable - Bernice and I keep saying 'shoe or no shoe you will praise the Lord']
5. soccer gear [jerseys, cleats, shin guards, balls]

Note: all of them take sick pleasure in chewing small plastic toys to death, so small figurines are not needed.

Last, and most importantly: I am presently beginning to fundraise for a water purification system and solar panels for the orphanage. If you are feeling especially generous, which you should be, please contact me and I will give you more details as they come to me. I have contacted several local businesses and am waiting to hear back from a few before I choose which to work with. Next letter I will offer more information.

Please let me know if you are considering making a donation towards any of this. I can give you about 4,395,564 reasons why it would be a good idea. Get in the Christmas spirit, people!

Love to all, Morgan O Hanson

p.s. You might think Obama's grandmother was from Ghana the way people act over here. Throughout our whole trip up north, strangers would yell Obama at us from down the street, upstairs, out the window, or come up to me and say 'OBAMA?' All I had to do was reply 'OBAMA!!' and I had a new friend.